Step 1: We Start With the Right Setup
Before digitizing begins, we confirm:
- Final artwork (vector preferred)
- Finished size (most commonly 90mm wide for chest)
- Garment type (polo, hoodie, fleece, softshell etc.)
- Brand thread colours
Small chest embroidery needs to be scaled properly. What works on a back print won’t always work at 90mm.
Step 2: Preparing Your Logo for Stitching
Embroidery cannot reproduce ultra-fine detail like print.
So we:
- Simplify very small elements
- Remove gradients
- Strengthen thin lines
- Ensure small text will remain readable
As a rule of thumb, text below 4–5mm high often won’t stitch cleanly, so we adjust where needed to maintain a professional finish.
Step 3: Choosing the Correct Stitch Types
Different parts of your logo require different stitches:
- Satin stitch → Ideal for lettering and clean borders
- Tatami (fill) stitch → Used for larger blocks of colour
- Running stitch → Fine detailing or subtle outlines
Choosing the correct stitch type prevents thread breaks, distortion and heavy-looking embroidery.
Step 4: Adding Underlay (The Hidden Foundation)
Underlay is the foundation layer beneath the visible stitching.
It:
- Anchors the design to the fabric
- Prevents stitches from sinking into fleece or hoodies
- Improves edge sharpness
Without proper underlay, embroidery can look thin and uneven, especially on sweatshirts or thicker material.
Step 5: Adjusting Density & Pull Compensation
Fabric moves when stitched.
If this isn’t accounted for, circles become ovals and text becomes squashed.
We adjust:
- Stitch density (to prevent puckering)
- Pull compensation (to counteract fabric tension)
- Stitch length (to avoid breaks or loose threads)
These small technical settings make a huge difference in final quality.
Step 6: Smart Stitch Direction & Sequencing
The order stitches run in matters.
We plan the stitch path to:
- Reduce unnecessary trims
- Prevent gaps between colours
- Improve stability
- Create clean, professional flow
This also keeps production efficient and consistent across repeat orders.
Step 7: Stabiliser & Production Setup
For most sweatshirts and hoodies, we use:
- Medium-weight cut-away backing
- Water-soluble topping if fabric is fluffy
- Correct needle size (typically 75/11)
The right backing prevents rippling and distortion after washing.
Step 8: Test Stitch Before Full Production
We always test new designs.
We check for:
- Puckering
- Distortion
- Gaps between shapes
- Thread breaks
- Text clarity
- Overall finish
Only once everything is clean and balanced do we move to production.
